Air Flow Problem – (most common cause) If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.
Blower Wheel – The blower wheel works with the drive motor to draw air into the dryer drum. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, it may take too long to dry clothes. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
Gas Valve Solenoid – (Gas Dyers Only) – Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. Sometimes, a solenoid can fail several minutes into the drying cycle, causing the dryer to take a long time to dry the clothes. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.
Heating Element – The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the heating element is burned out, or if any other part of the assembly is defective, the dryer may not heat. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.
Heating Element Assembly – The heating element assembly warms the air as it passes over. If the heating element is burned out, or if any other part of the assembly is defective, the dryer may not heat. If the dryer doesn’t heat, the dryer will take a substantial amount of time to dry clothes. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.
Lint Filter (2nd most common cause) – The lint filter might be clogged. Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the lint filter is clogged, clean it. REMEMBER TO CLEAN THE LINT TRAP!
Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor monitors the clothing’s moisture level and sends a signal to the control board when the clothes are dry. If the moisture sensor is malfunctioning, it could inaccurately report that the clothing is still moist, causing the dryer to keep running even though the clothes are dry. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the moisture sensor check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the moisture sensor.
High Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat monitors the dryer temperature and shuts off the burner if the dryer overheats. If the high-limit thermostat is malfunctioning, it may shut off the burner even if the dryer is not overheating. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multi-meter to test for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
Thermistor – Some dryer models have a thermistor. The control board uses the thermistor to monitor the dryer temperature and cycle the heat on and off. If the thermistor is defective, it might not cycle the heat on, causing the clothes to not to dry properly.
Thermal Fuse – The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multi-meter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.
Start Switch – To determine if the start switch is defective, attempt to start the dryer. If the dryer hums but does not start, the start switch is not at fault. If the dryer does not respond or make any noise, the start switch could be at fault. Use a multi-meter to test the start switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Door Switch – The door switch activates when the dryer door is closed. On most dryers, the door switch makes an audible clicking sound when it activates. To determine if the door switch is working, try starting your dryer and then listen for the “click.” If the door switch makes a clicking sound, it is probably not defective. If you don’t hear a click, use a multi-meter to use the door switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Drive Motor – The drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. Before replacing the motor, first check the thermal fuse, start switch, and door switch. If all of these parts are working properly, but the motor is making a humming noise, remove the belt from the motor and check the blower wheel for obstructions. If the blower wheel is clear of obstructions, the dryer motor might be at fault. If you suspect the motor is defective, replace it.
Drive Belt – On most dryers, when the dryer belt breaks, the motor will still run, but the drum will not turn. However, some dryers have a switch that shuts off power to the dryer if the drive belt is broken. Check the dryer belt to determine if it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it.
Belt Switch – On most dryers, when the dryer belt breaks, the motor will still run, but the drum won’t turn. However, some dryers have a switch that shuts off power to the dryer if the drive belt is broken. If this switch fails, it could shut off power to the dryer even when the belt is not broken. First, start the dryer and then listen for a humming noise. If the dryer makes a humming noise when you try to start it, this indicates that the belt switch is not defective. Next, search for your model number to determine if your dryer has a belt switch. If your dryer has a belt switch, use a multi-meter to test the switch for continuity. If the switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Incoming Power Problem -If you have a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to determine if the outlet is working. If you have an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If the circuit breaker or fuses are working, use a multi-meter to test the outlet.
Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the main control board, check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board. (The control board cannot be easily tested, but you can try to inspect it for signs of burning or a shorted-out component.)
Timer – The timer might be defective. However, this is very rarely the case. Before replacing the timer, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, test the timer by using a multimeter and consulting the wiring diagram. If the timer is defective, replace it.
Drive Belt – The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley. Over time, the belt can break from normal use. If the belt is broken, the dryer won’t turn. To quickly determine if the belt is broken, reach into the dryer and turn the drum by hand. If the drum spins very easily, the belt is likely broken. Next, inspect the belt to confirm that it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it.
Drum Roller – One or more of the drum rollers might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the rollers don’t spin freely, the motor will get overloaded and the dryer will stop. If the drum rollers are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If one or more of the rollers don’t turn freely, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)
Drum Support Roller & Axle – One or more of the drum roller axles might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the drum roller axles are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely, causing the motor to overload and the dryer to stop. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the axles for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
Drum Slide, Glide, or Pad – If the dryer stops turning during the cycle, one or more of the drum glides (also called slides) might be worn out. The drum glides are small plastic pieces that support the front of the dryer drum. As the drum rotates, it slides on these plastic pieces. Over time, the drum glides wear out. If the drum glides are worn out, the drum can start binding and put strain on the motor. If this happens, the motor shuts down, preventing the dryer from turning. To determine if the drum glides are worn out, inspect them for wear. If the glides are worn out, replace all of the glides as a set.
Drum Bearing – The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, this bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, it might put too much strain on the motor, causing the dryer to stop mid-cycle. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, check the drum bearing and replace it if necessary.
Drum Roller Axle – One or more of the drum roller axles might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the roller axles are worn out, the rollers may not spin freely, causing the motor to overload and the dryer to stop. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
Drum Support Bearing – The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, this bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, it might put too much strain on the motor, causing the dryer to stop mid-cycle. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, replace the drum bearing.
Drive Motor – The drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer runs, stops for a while, and then starts again, this likely indicates that the motor is overheating, causing the dryer to shut off until the motor cools down. First, remove the belt from the motor and check the blower wheel to ensure that it is not obstructed. Next, with the belt removed, try rotating the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, determine what is causing the drum to bind. If the drum turns freely and the blower wheel is clear of obstructions, the drive motor might be defective. If you suspect the motor is at fault, replace it.
Dryness Control Board – The dryness control board shuts off the dryer when the clothes have reached the proper level of dryness. If the control board is defective, it may cause the dryer to stop too early. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the control board check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other parts are working properly, replace the dryness control board.
Drive Belt – The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor pulley. Over time, the belt can break from normal use. If the belt is broken, the dryer won’t turn. To quickly determine if the belt is broken, reach into the dryer and turn the drum by hand. If the drum spins very easily, the belt is likely broken. Next, inspect the belt to confirm that it is broken. If the belt is broken, replace it.
Drum Roller – Most dryers have two drum rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. If the drum rollers are worn out, the dryer won’t turn properly. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If one or more of the rollers are worn out, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)
Drum Roller Axle – Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. Over time, the drum roller axles can wear out, causing the rollers to bind. If the rollers are worn out or start binding, the motor will get overloaded and the dryer won’t turn. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, they do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
Drum Bearing – The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, this bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, the dryer may not turn properly. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, the drum bearing is not likely worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, check the drum bearing and replace it if necessary.
Drum Support Roller & Axle – Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. Over time, the drum roller axles can wear out, causing the rollers to bind. If the rollers are worn out or start binding, the motor will get overloaded and the dryer won’t turn. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, they do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
Drum Support Bearing – The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, this bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, it may put too much strain on the motor, causing the dryer to stop mid-cycle or not turn at all. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, replace the drum bearing.
Drum Slide, Glide or Pad – One or more of the drum glides (also called slides) might be worn out. The drum glides are small plastic pieces that support the front of the dryer drum. As the drum rotates, it slides on these plastic pieces. Over time, the drum glides wear out. If the drum glides are worn out, the drum can start binding and put strain on the motor. If this happens, the motor shuts down, preventing the dryer from turning. To determine if the drum glides are worn out, inspect them for wear. If one or more of the glides are worn out, replace all of the glides as a set.
Drive Motor – The drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. First, check the motor to see if it makes a humming noise. If the motor still hums, remove the belt from the motor and check the blower wheel to ensure that it is not obstructed. Next, with the belt removed, try rotating the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, determine what is causing the drum to bind. If the drum turns freely and the blower wheel is clear of obstructions, the drive motor might be defective. If you suspect the motor is at fault, replace it.
Heating Element – The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multi-meter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.
Heating Element Assembly – The heating element warms air as it passes over the element. If the element is partially shorted out, it may produce heat continuously, even if the dryer has reached the proper temperature. When this happens, the dryer gets too hot. To determine if the heating element is at fault, first use a multi-meter to test the heating element for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it. Next, test for continuity from each terminal to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.
Air Flow Problem – If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.
Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to maintain the proper air temperature. If the thermostat is defective, it may keep the heat on too long, causing the dryer to get too hot. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
Felt Seal – Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to prevent heat from escaping the drum. If the seal is worn out or missing, the heat will not be drawn through the drum properly, causing the dryer to get too hot. Check the drum seal to ensure that it is creating a reliable seal around the drum. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the felt seal check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the felt seal.
Blower Wheel – The blower wheel works with the drive motor to draw air into the dryer drum. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, the dryer may get too hot. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
Air Flow Problem – If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.
Lint Filter – The lint filter might be clogged. Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the lint filter is clogged, clean it.
Blower Wheel – The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, it may take too long to dry clothes. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
Gas Valve Solenoid(Gas Dryers Only) – Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a solenoid fails, the burner may run intermittently. If the burner keeps shutting off, the dryer won’t heat properly and may not stop. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.
Heating Element – The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. Over time, the heating element can burn out. If the heating element isn’t working, the clothes will take substantially longer to dry. To determine if the heating element has burned out, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.
Heating Element Assembly – The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the heating element assembly isn’t working, the drying time will be substantially increased. To determine if the heating element has burned out, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.
Moisture Sensor – The moisture sensor monitors the clothing’s moisture level and sends a signal to the control board when the clothes are dry. If the moisture sensor is malfunctioning, it could inaccurately report that the clothing is still moist, causing the dryer to keep running even though the clothes are dry. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the moisture sensor check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the moisture sensor.
Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multi-meter to test for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
High Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat monitors the dryer temperature and shuts off the burner if the dryer overheats. If the high-limit thermostat is malfunctioning, it may shut off the burner even if the dryer is not overheating. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
Thermistor – If the dryer won’t stop, the thermistor might be defective. Some dryers have a thermistor. The control board uses the thermistor to monitor the dryer temperature and cycle the heat on and off. If the thermistor is defective, it may turn off the heat too early, considerably lengthening the drying time. However, this is rarely the case.
Timer – Mechanical timers have a motor on them like a clock that rotates the timer down to the off position on the control panel. If the motor goes bad on the timer it will not move when set to a timed dry cycle and the dryer won’t stop.
Thermal Fuse – The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If overheated the fuse will have no continuity meaning the electrical path is broken and the fuse has blown. A multi-meter can be used to test it for continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.
Gas Valve Solenoid (Gas Dryers Only) – Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve ports to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. If a gas valve solenoid fails, the dryer won’t heat. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.
Igniter (Gas Dryers Only) –The igniter uses heat to ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter is not working, the gas will not ignite, preventing the dryer from heating. To determine if the igniter has burned out, use a multi-meter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.
Heating Element – The heating element warms the air before it enters the dryer drum. Over time, the heating element can burn out, causing the dryer not to heat. To determine if the heating element has burned out, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.
Heating Element Assembly – The heating element assembly warms the air before it enters the dryer drum. Over time, the heating element can burn out, causing the dryer not to heat. To determine if the heating element assembly has burned out, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the heating element assembly does not have continuity, replace it.
Flame Sensor (Gas Dryers Only) – On a gas dryer, the flame sensor detects the heat emitted by the flame. If the flame sensor isn’t working, the dryer won’t heat. Before checking the flame sensor, first make sure that the igniter and thermal fuse are not at fault. To determine if the flame sensor is defective, use a multi-meter to test the sensor for continuity at room temperature. If the flame sensor does not have continuity at room temperature, replace it.
Incoming Power Problem – If your dryer is not heating, then you may have an incoming power problem. Electric dryers need two legs of 120 volts AC equaling 240 volts. It is not uncommon for only one fuse or breaker to trip resulting in the dryer able to run, but not heat. The fuse box or circuit breaker should be checked or voltage measured at the outlet using a multi-meter.
High Limit Thermostat – The high-limit thermostat monitors the dryer temperature and shuts off the burner if the dryer overheats. If the high-limit thermostat is malfunctioning, it may shut off the burner even if the dryer is not overheating. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
Cycling Thermostat – The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multi-meter to test for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the main control board, check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board. (The control board cannot be easily tested, but you can try to inspect it for signs of burning or a shorted-out component.)
Timer – If the dryer doesn’t heat, the timer might be defective. However, this is very rarely the case. Before replacing the timer, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, test the timer by using a multi-meter and consulting the wiring diagram. If the timer is defective, replace it.
The Circuit Breaker Is Weak – Over time, circuit breakers can weaken. If the circuit breaker is weak, it may trip too often, even if the amperage draw is below the limit. If you have already checked all of the potentially defective dryer components, consider having an electrician replace the circuit breaker.
Heating Element – Sometimes, if the heating element fails, it shorts out against the heater housing, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multi-meter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element is shorted out, replace it.
Heating Element Assembly – Sometimes, if the heating element fails, it shorts out against the heater housing, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the heating element assembly is shorted out, use a multi-meter to test each terminal for continuity to the case. If the heating element assembly has continuity to the case, it is shorted out. If the heating element assembly is shorted out, replace it.
Drive Motor – Sometimes, when the drive motor fails, it shorts out internally, causing the dryer to trip the circuit breaker. To determine if the drive motor is at fault, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the motor windings are shorted out, replace the drive motor.
Terminal Block – Electric dryer power cords attach to the dryer at a terminal block. If any of the wires on the terminal block are loose, they can arc and destroy part of the block. If this happens, one of the wires can short against the body of the dryer, causing the dryer to trip the breaker. This is not a common occurrence.
Drive Belt – The drive belt is a very long, slender belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and then around the drive motor. Over time, the drive belt can become frayed or otherwise damaged. If the drive belt is frayed or damaged, the dryer will be noisy as it turns. Inspect the drive belt for signs of wear. If the drive belt is worn, replace it.
Drum Roller – One or more of the drum rollers might be worn out. Many dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. When the drum rollers are worn out, they can cause the dryer to make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the rollers are worn out, inspect the rollers. If one or more of the rollers are severely worn, we recommend replacing all of the rollers at the same time as a preventative measure. (The roller shaft can often be reused if it is in good condition. Clean the shaft thoroughly before installing the new rollers.)
Drum Roller Axle – One or more of the drum roller axles might be worn out. Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. Over time, the drum rollers and axles wear out, causing the dryer to make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the drum roller axles are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, the axles do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
Blower Wheel – The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. If an object is caught in the blower wheel, the dryer may make noise. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.
Drum Bearing – The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, the drum bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, the dryer may make noise. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, check the drum bearing and replace it if necessary.
Drum Support Roller & Axle – Most dryers have two drum support rollers on the rear of the drum, and some dryers have two more rollers supporting the front of the drum. The rollers must spin freely to work properly. Over time, the drum roller axles can wear out, causing the rollers to bind. If the rollers are worn out or start binding, the dryer may make a loud rumbling noise. To determine if the support rollers are worn out, remove the belt from the dryer and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum does not rotate freely, check the support rollers for wear. If the rollers spin freely without wobbling, they do not need to be replaced. If a roller wobbles and/or does not spin freely, we recommend replacing all of the axles and rollers as a preventative measure.
Maintenance Kit – If your dryer is making noise and you aren’t sure which part to replace, you can purchase a dryer maintenance kit. The dryer maintenance kit contains all of the parts that are commonly defective when the dryer is noisy. Search for your model number to find the maintenance kit applicable to your dryer.
Drum Support Bearing – The drum bearing supports the rear of the dryer drum. Over time, the drum bearing wears out. If the drum bearing is worn out, the dryer may make noise. To determine if the drum bearing is at fault, remove the dryer belt and try turning the drum by hand. If the drum rotates freely, it is unlikely that the drum bearing is worn out. If the drum makes squealing or grinding sounds when turned and/or is hard to turn, replace the drum bearing.
Drum Slide, Glide or Pad – The drum glides (also called slides) might be worn out. The drum glides are small plastic pieces that support the front of the dryer drum. As the drum rotates, it slides on these plastic pieces. Over time, the drum glides wear out. If the drum glides are worn out, the dryer will make noise. To determine if the drum glides are worn out, inspect them for wear. If one or more glides are worn out, replace all of the glides as a set.
Idler Pulley – Inspect the idler pulley for signs of wear. If the idler pulley is worn or damaged, we recommend replacing the drive belt in addition to replacing the idler pulley.
Idler Assembly – Inspect the idler assembly for signs of wear. If the idler assembly is worn or damaged, we recommend replacing the drive belt in addition to replacing the idler assembly.
Drive Motor – The drive motor bearings might be worn out. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the drive motor, check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the drive motor.
