Trouble Shooting Your Refrigerator

First remove all items from inside the refrigerator and wipe down shelves, storage areas inside the door and especially the vegetable crispers (this tends to be the area of most spoiled food-causing the smell) with a wet rag, follow up with a dry rag to ensure there’s not too much moisture on shelves.  After cleaning, and once you’ve placed everything back into refrigerator place an open box of baking soda to keep your refrigerator fresh smelling.

Really, a warm wet clean rag is the best when you clean/wipe down frequently; however, it is always good to at least once a month use a bleach filled product to disinfect the refrigerator.  This will help keep germs at bay and help maintain a healthy safe refrigerator.

1. Condenser Coils Are Dirty – The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty; and if the condenser coils are dirty, then time to clean them.
2. Condenser Fan Motor – The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser coils and over the compressor. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, the refrigerator won’t cool properly. To determine if the fan motor is defective, first check the fan blade for obstructions. Next, try turning the fan motor blade by hand. If the blade does not spin freely, replace the condenser fan motor. If no obstructions are present and the fan blade spins freely, use a multi-meter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.
3. Evaporator Fan Motor – The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multi-meter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.
4. Start Relay – The start relay works in conjunction with the start winding to start the compressor. If the start relay is defective, the compressor may sometimes fail to run or may not run at all. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the start relay is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity between the run and start terminal sockets. If the start relay does not have continuity between the run and start terminal sockets, replace it. In addition, if the start relay has a burnt odor, replace it.
5. Temperature Control Thermostat – The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may prevent the refrigerant system from running. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multi-meter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.
6. Start Capacitor – The start capacitor provides a boost of power to the compressor during start-up. If the start capacitor isn’t working, the compressor may not start. As a result, the refrigerator will not cool. To determine if the start capacitor is defective, test it with a multi-meter. If the start capacitor is defective, replace it.
7. Thermistor – The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will not be cold enough. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multi-meter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.
8. Temperature Control Board – The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the temperature control board is defective, it will stop sending voltage to the cooling system. However, this is not a common occurrence. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.
9. Compressor – The compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the refrigerator won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multi-meter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician.
10. Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, this is almost never the cause. Before replacing the main control board, test all of more commonly defective parts. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

1. Water Tube in Door Is Frozen – To determine if the water supply tube is frozen, disconnect the tube at the bottom of the door and blow air through it. If air does not pass through, this indicates that the water supply tube is frozen. If the water supply tube is frozen, thaw it out. In addition, ensure that the freezer is kept at the proper temperature. The freezer temperature should be kept from 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit. If the freezer is too cold, the water line may freeze.
2. Water Inlet Valve –  The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if the water pressure is too low, the water valve will not open. The valve requires at least 20psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multi-meter to test the water inlet valve for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.
3. Lower Water Pressure From House Supply –  The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.
4. Dispenser Control Board –  The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
5. Dispenser Switch –  The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.
6. Water Filter –  A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the dispenser from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.
7. Door Switch –  The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

1. Dispenser Control Board – The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If the control board is faulty, it may stop supplying power to the entire dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. It is more likely that a single part has failed. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
2. Dispenser Switch – The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.
3. Dispenser Actuator – The dispenser actuator interacts with the dispenser switches, which power the auger motor and other dispenser components. If the dispenser actuator is broken, it may not activate the switches properly or at all. Inspect the dispenser actuator—if it is broken, replace it.
4. Auger Motor – The auger motor spins the auger blade and pushes the ice through the dispenser chute. If the auger motor is burned out or defective, the ice won’t move forward and fall through the chute. To determine if the auger motor is defective, pull out the ice bucket and turn the bucket auger by hand. If the auger turns freely, use a multi-meter to test the auger motor for continuity. If the auger motor does not have continuity, or if the motor is getting power but won’t run, replace the auger motor.
5. Dispenser Solenoid – The dispenser solenoid opens a door flap to release the ice and then closes the door flap once the dispenser finishes dispensing ice. If the dispenser solenoid is defective, the dispenser door won’t open. To determine if the dispenser door solenoid is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. In addition, check the dispenser actuator pin to ensure that it moves freely. If the dispenser door solenoid does not have continuity, or if the actuator pin does not move freely, replace the dispenser solenoid.
6. Ice Bucket Auger – When the dispenser lever is pressed, the auger motor rotates the auger. As the auger rotates, it pushes the ice toward the dispenser door and down the chute. If the auger is defective, it won’t be able to push the ice out of the dispenser. Check the auger to determine if it is broken or if it is disconnected from the auger motor. If the auger is broken, replace it.
7. Dispenser Door Motor – The dispenser door motor opens and closes the dispenser door to prevent cold air from escaping the freezer. If the dispenser door motor is defective, the dispenser door won’t open. As a result, the dispenser will not dispense ice. To determine if the motor is defective, first determine if the motor is getting power. If the motor is getting power, but it won’t run, replace it. You can use a multi-meter to test the motor for continuity. If the dispenser door motor does not have continuity, replace it.
8. Ice Crusher Blade – If the ice crusher blades are jammed by ice, use warm water to melt the ice. If the ice crusher blades are bent or broken, replace them.

1. Freezer Temperature Is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C) – If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.
2. Water Inlet Valve – The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the dispenser and ice maker. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if it has insufficient pressure, it won’t allow water to flow through. As a result, the ice maker won’t make ice. The valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multi-meter to check for power to the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve has sufficient pressure and is getting power, but the ice maker won’t fill with water to make ice, replace the water inlet valve.
3. Ice Assembly – One component of the ice maker assembly might be defective. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are at fault, and the freezer temperature is at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.
4. Icemaker Module – The icemaker module is equipped with a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms or turns a tray to eject the cubes into the ice bucket. When the thermostat or sensor on the icemaker tray reaches about 15 degrees Fahrenheit, the motor cycles to release the ice cubes. At the end of the cycle, the icemaker module sends power to the water inlet valve to refill the tray with water. If the icemaker module is defective, the ice maker won’t make or dispense ice. First, depending on your model, make sure that the on/off switch is in the on position or the bail arm is in the down position. If the icemaker module has ejector blades, check to ensure that ice cubes are not stuck in the blades. There are usually test points in the module that a technician can use to further diagnose problems with the module.
5. Low Pressure From House Supply – The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the ice and water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.
6. Door Switch – The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.
7. Water Filter – A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the ice maker from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six (6) months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.
8. Ice Level Control Board – Some refrigerators use an infrared beam to sense the level of ice in the ice bucket. When the ice level reaches the top of the bucket, it interrupts the infrared beam. The control board then shuts off the ice maker. When the ice level drops below the beam, the control board signals the ice maker to make more ice. If the ice level control board fails, the ice maker will stop making ice. Ensure that the ice level control board is getting power. If the ice level control board is getting power, but the ice maker won’t work, replace the ice level control board.
9. Icemaker Mold Thermostat – The icemaker mold thermostat monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature, the icemaker ejects the ice cubes and refills the ice mold with water. If the mold thermostat is defective, the ice maker will stop making ice. To determine if the thermostat is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the mold thermostat does not have continuity, replace it. (Note: If the ice maker is not cold enough, the mold thermostat contacts will open. If the thermostat contacts are open, the ice maker will not make ice. The ice maker temperature must generally be lower than 20 degrees Fahrenheit for the thermostat contacts to close.)
10. Icemaker Switch – The ice maker switch might be defective. It is also possible that the icemaker switch got turned off by accident. Check the switch to ensure that it is turned on. If the icemaker switch is turned on, but the ice maker still isn’t working, use a multi-meter to test the switch for continuity. If the icemaker switch does not have continuity, replace it.

1. Defrost Control Board – The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.
2. Defrost Timer – The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.
3. Defrost Heater Assembly – The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
4. Defrost Thermostat – The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.
5. Defrost Sensor With Fuse – The defrost sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator. The defrost sensor has a fuse to back up the sensor in case the sensor fails. If the defrost sensor fails to shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow in order to shut off the defrost heater. If the defrost sensor fuse blows, the defrost system will not work, and the refrigerator will not defrost. The defrost sensor fuse is not resettable—if the defrost sensor fuse blows, you must replace the defrost sensor. To determine if the defrost sensor or fuse is defective, use a multi-meter to test both the sensor and fuse for continuity. If either the defrost sensor or fuse does not have continuity, replace the defrost sensor.
6. Main Control Board – The main control board regulates the power supply to all of the refrigerator components, including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

1. Fan Blade – If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when the door is opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, turn the evaporator fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade to determine if it has any obstructions.
2. Evaporator Fan Motor – When the evaporator fan motor fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan is noisy, replace it.
3. Condenser Fan Motor – There might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor bearings might be defective. The condenser fan motor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
4. Compressor – If the noise is coming from the compressor, the compressor might be wearing out. As the compressor wears out over time, it generates more noise than usual. Compressors often last for years after they become noisy. However, if your compressor is noisy, be aware that it is likely to fail. Your compressor must be replaced by a licensed technician.
5. Water Inlet Valve – If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, particularly when the ice maker is filling, the water inlet valve might be at fault. The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the refrigerator dispenser and icemaker. Over time, mineral deposits can accumulate inside the valve and restrict the water flow. If the water inlet valve is noisy or loud, replace it. Do not attempt to repair the water inlet valve—disassembling the valve can cause the valve to fail.

1. Evaporator Coils Are Frosted Over – The defrost heater assembly turns on a few times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will become plugged with frost. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the airflow through the coils will be restricted, causing the refrigerator not to cool. Check the evaporator coils to determine if they are frosted over. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, test each component of the defrost system.
2. Evaporator Fan Motor – The evaporator fan motor draws cold air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan is not working, the freezer or refrigerator will not cool adequately. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multi-meter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.
3. Damper Control Assembly – The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not open properly, it won’t let enough cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck closed.
4. Thermistor – The thermistor monitors the refrigerator temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary, or may run too frequently. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multi-meter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.
5. Temperature Control Board – The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the control board is faulty, it may stop sending voltage to the compressor or fan motors. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.
6. Defrost Control Board – The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the defrost control board fails, the refrigerator will not run the defrost cycle, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the refrigerator will work harder to remove heat. As a result, the refrigerator may be too warm. If the defrost thermostat and defrost heater are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective and will need to be replaced.
7. Defrost Timer – The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it might not advance into the defrost cycle, or it might not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. If the defrost system isn’t working, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove heat. As a result, the refrigerator may be too warm. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it
8. Defrost Thermostat – The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.
9. Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, the control board is very rarely the cause of the problem. Before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of these components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

1. Clogged or Freezing Defrost Drain – The defrost drain might be clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw it out and ensure that the drain is clear of debris.
2. Drain Strap – Some defrost drains are outfitted with a drain strap. The drain strap is a small piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.
3. Drain Heater – Some refrigerators are equipped with drain heaters. Drain heaters prevent the water in the drain pan from re-freezing and clogging the defrost drain. If your drain heater is defective or is not in the proper position, the defrost drain might freeze over.

1. Clogged or Freezing Defrost Drain (very common) – If the defrost drain is frozen, the water will overflow the drain trough and drip down to the bottom of the compartment. This water can eventually leak onto the floor. Check the defrost drain to determine if it is clogged or frozen. If the defrost drain is frozen, thaw the ice. In addition, flush the drain with hot water to ensure that it is clear of debris.
2. Water Tank Assembly – Inspect the water tank assembly for any leaks. Be aware that the leak may be very small and hard to find. If you discover a leak, replace the water tank. Do not attempt to repair the water tank—glue will not stick properly to the plastic of the tank.
3. Water Inlet Valve – The water inlet valve opens to supply water to the dispenser and icemaker. If the water inlet valve is cracked or has a loose fitting, water will leak from the valve. Inspect the water inlet valve for cracks, and make sure that it is tightly secured to the water supply line.
4. Water Filter Housing –Inspect the water filter housing for cracks. If you discover any cracks in the water filter housing, replace the housing.
5. Water Filter Head – The water filter head might be cracked, or the seal may be torn or missing. Inspect the water filter housing for cracks. If you discover any cracks in the water filter housing, replace it.
6. Drain Pan – Self-defrosting refrigerators are equipped with a drain pan. The drain pan collects the water that melts from the evaporator coils. In order to evaporate the water in the drain pan, the condenser fan blows warm air from the condenser coils across the top of the drain pan. Because the condenser fan evaporates the water from the drain pan, the drain pan does not have to be emptied. However, if the drain pan is cracked, it will leak water as the defrost cycle is running. Inspect the drain pan for cracks. If the drain pan is cracked, replace it.
7. Water Filter – The water filter might be not fitted properly on the filter housing. If the water filter is not fitted properly, water may leak from the filter. Remove and reinstall the filter to ensure that it is fitted properly.

1. Temperature Control Thermostat – The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor (if applicable). If the temperature control thermostat is not working properly, it may cause the refrigerant system to run longer than necessary. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a click. If the thermostat clicks, it is not likely defective. If the thermostat does not click, use a multi-meter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity at any setting, replace it.
2. Thermistor – The thermistor monitors the air temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board then regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may run too frequently. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multi-meter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the refrigerator temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.
3. Temperature Control Board – The temperature control board provides voltage to the compressor and fan motors. If the control board is faulty, it may send continuous voltage to the compressor or fan motors. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cool. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of the other components are defective, consider replacing the temperature control board.
4. Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, the control board is very rarely the cause of the problem. Before replacing the control board, first test all of the more commonly defective components. If none of these components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
5. Damper Control Assembly – The air damper control opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper does not close properly, it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator. Check the damper control to determine if it is broken or stuck open.
6. Damper – The damper opens and closes to let the proper amount of cold air into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper is stuck open, it will let too much cold air into the refrigerator. As a result, the refrigerator will be too cold. Check the damper to determine if it is broken or stuck open.

1. Dispenser Control Board – The dispenser control board governs most of the functions of the dispenser system. If only one dispenser part is not working, it is probable that an individual part has failed. In this case, test each of the dispenser components before testing the control board. If the entire dispenser system is not working, the control board is more likely to be at fault.
2. Dispenser Switch – The dispenser switches send voltage to the dispenser. If one of the dispenser switches is defective, the dispenser will not work. To determine if a dispenser switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test each switch for continuity. If a dispenser switch does not have continuity, replace it.
3. Door Switch – The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.
4. Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, the control board is rarely at fault for this problem. Before replacing the control board, first check all of the dispenser components. If none of the dispenser components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

1. Water Inlet Valve – The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully once the power is shut off. As a result, the valve will leak water into the ice maker and cause the ice maker to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, the water inlet valve is likely defective. The valve may not shut off all the way or may be stuck open, causing water to leak through the valve. If the water pressure is sufficient, but the ice maker is still overflowing, replace the water inlet valve.
2. Low Water Pressure House Supply – The water inlet valve supplies water to the refrigerator ice and water dispenser. The valve requires a minimum of 20psi to work properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully when the power is shut off. As a result, the valve leaks water into the ice maker, causing it to overflow. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.
3. Ice Maker Assembly – One component of the ice maker assembly might be defective. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly.

1. Light Assembly – The light assembly might be defective. Some manufacturers don’t sell the light assembly components separately, and instead require you to purchase the light assembly.
2. Light Bulb – The light bulb might be out. Replace the light bulb before replacing any of the other parts associated with the light bulb.
3. Light Switch – To determine if the light switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the light switch does not have continuity, replace it.
4. Door Switch – To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.
5. Light Socket – To determine if the light socket is defective, use a multi-meter to determine if the socket is getting power. If the socket is getting power, but the light bulb won’t work, this indicates that the light socket is defective. If the light socket is defective, replace it.
6. Light Board – First, ensure that the light board is receiving the proper amount of voltage. If the light board is receiving sufficient voltage, but the refrigerator light will not work, replace the light board.

1. Condenser Coils Are Dirty – The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat from the refrigerator as refrigerant passes through them. If debris accumulates on the coils, the refrigerator will have to work harder to remove the heat. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. Your refrigerator’s condenser coils should be cleaned twice a year.
2. Freezer Temperature Is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C) – If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the refrigerator will not be cold enough. If the refrigerator is not cold enough, it will work harder to cold down. As a result, it will run constantly. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C). If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.
3. Defrost Heater Assembly – The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the refrigerator will not defrost, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, the refrigerator will work harder to remove the heat. As a result, the refrigerator will run constantly in an effort to cool down. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
4. Defrost Thermostat – If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost thermostat might be defective. Several times a day the defrost heater turns on for a few minutes to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer or refrigerator evaporator coils. In order for this to work, the defrost thermostat has to sense that the coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough the defrost heater will turn on. If the thermostat is defective it may not be able to sense the temperature of the coils and then won’t turn on the defrost heater. If the defrost heater doesn’t turn on, the frost will build up on the coils and eventually no air will be able to travel through the coils to provide cooling.  The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity. It should have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range.
5. Door Gasket – If the Refrigerator runs constantly the door gasket may be torn or defective, or if the door is not shutting tightly warm air can enter the the refrigerator and cause the evaporator coils to ice over. This happens because humid air from the room is drawn into the refrigerator through the opening at the gasket. As the humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils it condenses and freezes. Normally the defrost system removes this frost and ice. However, if the door gasket is defective the evaporator coils ice over too quickly and the defrost cycle cannot keep up.
6. Evaporator Fan Motor – If the refrigerator runs constantly, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
7. Defrost Control Board – If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost control board might be defective. The defrost control board monitors several conditions and determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Eventually, ice will build up on the evaporator coil and then the refrigerator and or freezer will not stay cold enough. This will depend on where the evaporator is located. It’s prudent to check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity before replacing the defrost control board.
8. Defrost Timer – If the refrigerator runs constantly, the defrost timer might be defective. Two or three times a day the defrost timer is supposed to turn on the defrost heater to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the timer is defective it won’t advance and won’t turn on the heater.
9. Main Control Board – If the refrigerator runs constantly, the main control board might be defective. A few times a day the control board is supposed to turn off the cooling system and turn on the defrost heater to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the control board is defective it could cause the system to never cycle into defrost.
10. Condenser Fan Motor – If the refrigerator runs constantly there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.

Yes. However, if you live in a region in which the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius), this is not a good idea. Such temperatures could cause the oil in the compressor to thicken, leading to premature compressor failure or other issues. Also, refrigerator/freezer units often won’t keep food frozen when the temperature of the garage drops below 35 degrees Fahrenheit (1.6 Celsius).

Your freezer works better when it’s full. That’s because the frozen items help keep the other items cold as well as help maintain the cooler temperature in your freezer.

If your freezer currently has some extra space – don’t worry – we’re not telling you to buy more groceries to fill it! All you have to do is throw in any extra ice packs you might have or fill up some plastic to-go containers, plastic baggies and/or empty milk jugs with water and add them to the freezer. (Leave some space when filling them, however, since water expands when it freezes.) It may seem silly, but it’ll help your freezer run more efficiently and save you money on your electric bill.

Your refrigerator’s thermostat should be set to 36 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit (approximately two degrees Celsius) and your freezer’s thermostat from 0 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 degrees Celsius).  If your model does not have a thermostat, use a thermometer to check the temperature. Adjust the control as needed.

It is illegal to send a refrigerator to a landfill without first removing the refrigerant, due to environmental and safety issues. Only licensed professionals can do this procedure. Contact your local municipality for more information. Many offer services to pick up refrigerators and properly dispose of them – for a nominal fee. If your local municipality does not offer such a service, contact a reliable, local appliance repair company and inquire about such services. Be sure to ask for a valid license and a certificate of compliance.

Yes, if your freezer has the necessary internal wiring (most do), this is a do-it-yourself project.

Enter your refrigerator’s model number to find an icemaker kit for your model.

No, because there several component, internal wiring and design differences.

Usually. If there is room in your unit for an additional shelf, and the necessary hardware in the walls and/or ceiling, you can add a shelf. Enter your refrigerator’s model number here to find a shelf for your refrigerator.

Yes. The freezer temperature increases by about 20 degrees during the defrost cycle. This is normal and doesn’t affect the quality of the food in your freezer.

Freezer burn is a common problem caused by food packaging. Food dehydrates due to exposure to the air in the freezer. Standard supermarket packaging for many foods is not designed to prevent dehydration. If you intend to store food in your freezer for more than a few days, you should place the food in airtight containers or zippered plastic bags specifically made for food preservation and freezer storage. It is absolutely safe to cook or eat freezer-burned food. However, most people find that the dehydration process destroys the food’s taste and texture. Dehydrated meat is said to be tough and tasteless after cooking.

No. There are several possible causes. Before troubleshooting in our refrigerator repair help information, make sure that the refrigerator’s condenser coils are clean, that there’s enough space between the condenser coils and the wall (one inch or about two and a half centimeters) for adequate air flow and that the gasket (door seal) is in good condition. Enter your refrigerator’s model number in our repair help for more information about other possible causes and fixes.