Lid Switch Assembly – The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multi-meter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Motor Coupling – The motor coupling connects the motor to the washing machine transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.
Drive Belt – Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.
Door Latch – The door latch secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is shut, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door latch is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door latch can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door latch for damage. If the door latch is damaged, or does not close properly, replace it. To determine if the door latch has failed electrically, use a multi-meter to test any switches on the door latch for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity when activated, replace the switch.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly – The door latch secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door latch is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door latch can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door latch for damage. If the door latch is damaged, or does not close properly, replace it. To determine if the door latch has failed electrically, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multi-meter to test any switches on the door latch for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.
Motor Control Board – The motor control board provides power to the motor. If the motor control board is defective, the washer may not function properly or may not work at all. First, check the control board for burned out components. To determine if the motor control board is defective, ensure that the control board is providing power to the motor. If the control board has power, but is not providing power to the motor, replace it.
Clutch – The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It helps the tub to gradually get up to the proper spin speed. If the clutch is worn out, it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable—if the clutch is worn out, replace it.
Drive Pulley – The drive pulley connects to the washer drum and works with the drive belt and motor to rotate the drum. If the drive pulley is worn out, the drive belt might slip off, preventing the washer from spinning. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it. If the drive pulley is defective, replace it.
Clutch Band Kit – The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It helps the tub to gradually get up to the proper spin speed. If the clutch is worn out, it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the clutch band kit is worn out, replace it.
Stator Assembly – The stator interacts with the rotor to create a strong electromagnetic field which rotates the tub in either direction. If the windings on the stator are damaged, the washer will not spin or agitate. Check the stator for damaged windings or other defects.
Rotor Assembly – The rotor interacts with the stator to create a strong electromagnetic field, which rotates the tub in either direction. If the magnets on the rotor are damaged, or any part of the rotor is defective, the washer may not spin or agitate. To determine if the rotor is defective, inspect the rotor for damage. If the rotor is damaged, replace it.
Tub Bearing – The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub of the washing machine. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing is defective, it can lock up and prevent the washer from spinning. The washer may also make a loud rumbling noise. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing as an assembly.
Tub Seal & Bearing Kit – The tub bearing and seal is mounted in the middle of the outer tub of the washing machine. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing is defective, it can lock up and prevent the washer from spinning. The washer may also make a loud rumbling noise. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing.
Rear Drum With Bearing – The rear drum has a bearing or bearings in it to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing system is defective the washer can become very noisy and the tub can stop spinning. On some machines bearings are sold separately from the rear drum, however we recommend replacing both the outer drum and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together because removing and pressing in the new bearing can be exceptionally difficult. Be aware that replacing the outer tub and bearing is also not easy and can be very costly.
Bearing – The bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing is defective, and the bearing is sold separately, replace it. If the bearing is not available separately, replace the outer tub and bearing as an assembly. Replacing the outer tub and bearing is a difficult and costly repair—if the bearing is defective, consider replacing the entire washing machine.
Drive Motor – The drive motor might be defective. However, the drive motor is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the drive motor, first check all of the more commonly defective washer components. If none of those components are defective, consider replacing the drive motor. To determine if the drive motor is defective, first ensure that the motor is getting power. If the drive motor hums but doesn’t run, is noisy, or does not turn freely, replace it.
Basket Drive – The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the transmission is engaging to spin, and the outer tub spins slowly or does not spin at all, the spin tube tabs may be stripped. Alternatively, the drive block on the spin tube may be stripped. Inspect both the spin tube tabs and the drive block. If the spin tube tabs and drive block are not worn out, the clutch pads on the basket drive are likely worn out. If the clutch pads are worn out, you must replace the basket drive.
Transmission – The washer transmission might be worn out or defective. Transmissions have gears in them that can fail causing the washer to not spin. However, this is almost never the case. Before replacing the transmission, first check all of the other more commonly defective parts.
Door Lock – Inspect the door strike assembly for damage. If the door strike is broken, replace it. The door strike is not repairable—if it is broken, you must replace it.
Tub Bearing – The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together.
Tub Seal & Bearing Kit – The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the washer is noisy during the spin cycle or is leaking from the bottom of the tub near the transmission, the tub seal and bearing are likely defective. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing the outer tub and bearing at the same time.
Rear Drum & Bearing – The rear drum has a bearing or bearings in it to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing system is defective the washer can become very noisy. On some machines bearings are sold separately from the rear drum, however we recommend replacing both the outer drum and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together because removing and pressing in the new bearing can be exceptionally difficult. Be aware that replacing the outer tub and bearing is also not easy and can be very costly.
Bearing – The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing.
Drive Pulley – The drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If the drive pulley is damaged or defective, replace it.
Pulley – The drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If the drive pulley is damaged or defective, replace it.
Motor Coupling – The motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.
Clutch – The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It helps the tub to gradually get up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out over time, it may become loud during the spin cycle or just after the spin cycle finishes. The clutch is not repairable—if the clutch is worn out, replace it.
Drive Belt – The drive belt might be defective. Over time, the drive belt dries out and starts to crack. Eventually, a piece of the belt can break off, causing the belt to make a loud noise whenever the motor is running. To determine if the drive belt is broken, inspect the drive belt. If the drive belt is broken or damaged, replace it.
Transmission – The washer transmission might be worn out or defective. Transmissions have gears in them that can fail causing the washer to to be noisy during operation. However, this is almost never the case. Before replacing the transmission, first check all of the other more commonly defective parts.
Drain Pump – If the washer is making a loud noise while draining, the drain pump might be clogged or defective. Sometimes, small objects or articles of clothing can get caught in the drain pump. To determine if anything is blocking the drain pump, remove the drain pump and check the pump for obstructions. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle, replace the drain pump.
Drive Motor – The drive motor bearings might be worn out. Washer motors are normally very quiet during operation. To determine if the washer motor is defective, remove the drive belt from the washer and then run the motor. If the motor is still loud, this indicates that the drive motor is defective and needs to be replaced.
Water Inlet Valve – If the washer is noisy or loud, particularly when the washer is filling, the water inlet valve may be at fault. Over time, mineral deposits can build up inside the valve and cause a restriction. If the water inlet valve is restricted, it will make noise during the fill cycle. If the water inlet valve is defective, replace it. Do not attempt to repair the water inlet valve—taking apart the valve makes it susceptible to failure.
Agitator Repair Kit – If the washer won’t agitate, replacing the agitator repair kit may solve the problem. The kit contains the agitator components that are most likely to wear out and/or fail. If any of the parts are worn out, stripped, or damaged, replace the kit.
Drive Block or Bell – The drive block connects the washer transmission to the agitator. If the drive block is worn out, the transmission shaft will still move back and forth, but the agitator will only move slightly or will not move at all. Inspect the drive block for damage. If the drive block is worn out, stripped, or damaged, replace it.
Motor Coupling – The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.
Drive Belt – Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.
Motor Control Board – The motor control board provides power to the motor. If the motor control board is defective, the washer may not work properly or may not work at all. First, check the control board for burned out components. To determine if the motor control board is defective, ensure that the control board is providing power to the motor. If the control board has power, but is not providing power to the motor, replace it.
Drive Motor – The drive motor might be defective. However, the drive motor is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the drive motor, first check all of the more commonly defective washer components. If none of those components are defective, consider replacing the drive motor. To determine if the drive motor is defective, first ensure that the motor is getting power. If the drive motor hums but doesn’t run, is noisy, or does not turn freely, replace it.
Door Lock – The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer door will not latch properly. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, use a multi-meter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity.
Stator Assembly – The stator interacts with the rotor to create a strong electromagnetic field which rotates the tub in either direction. If the windings on the stator are damaged, the washer will not spin or agitate. Check the stator for damaged windings or other defects.
Door Lock Motor & Switch Assembly – The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multi-meter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.
Rotor Assembly – The rotor interacts with the stator to create a strong electromagnetic field, which rotates the tub in either direction. If the magnets on the rotor are damaged, or any part of the rotor is defective, the washer may not spin or agitate. To determine if the rotor is defective, inspect the rotor for damage. If the rotor is damaged, replace it.
Lower Agitator – The lower agitator might be damaged or stripped away where it connects to the drive system inside. To determine if the lower agitator is stripped inside remove it from the washer and inspect for damage or wear.
Upper Agitator – The upper agitator might be damaged or stripped out at the lower agitator connection point. Inspect the agitator for damage or wear around the connection point.
Agitator Assembly – The agitator might be damaged or stripped away where it connects to the drive system inside. To determine if the agitator is stripped inside remove it from the washer and inspect for damage or wear.
Washplate – If the washing machine will not agitate correctly the washplate might be damaged and stripped off the drive shaft. The agitator can be removed to check out the washplate connection point.
Drain Pump – Sometimes, small objects or articles of clothing can get caught in the drain pump. To determine if anything is blocking the drain pump, remove the drain pump and check the pump for obstructions. If the drain pump is clear of obstructions, but is still noisy during the drain cycle, replace the drain pump.
Clogged Pump or Hose – Sometimes, socks and other small articles of clothing can get into the drain system and clog the pump hose or the pump itself. Remove the hoses from the pump and check for any obstructions.
Lid Switch Assembly – The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not drain. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multi-meter to test each of the lid switches for continuity. If a lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Door Lock Motor & Switch Assembly – The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multi-meter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.
Water Pump Belt – Some older washing machines are equipped with a water pump belt. If the water pump belt is broken or worn out, the washer will not drain. Check the belt and replace it if it shows signs of excessive wear.
Drain Hose – First, check the drain hose to determine if it is kinked, twisted, or bent. If the drain hose is bent, straighten it out. In addition, remove the drain hose and check it for obstructions. If the drain hose has any obstructions, try to remove them. If necessary, replace the drain hose.
Coin Trap – Some washers are equipped with a coin trap to trap any foreign objects that enter the drain. The coin trap should be checked and cleaned periodically. If debris continues to accumulate in the coin trap, the coin trap will become clogged, and the washer will not drain properly. If the washer won’t drain or is not draining properly, and the washer has a coin trap, remove the coin trap and clean it thoroughly.
Door Lock – Inspect the door strike assembly for damage. If the door strike is broken, replace it. The door strike is not repairable—if it is broken, you must replace it.
Shock Absorber – One or more of the shock absorbers might be broken or worn out. The shock absorbers dampen the vibration of the washer tub. If one or more of the shock absorbers are worn out, the washer will vibrate or shake. Sometimes, when a washer is moved to another location, the shock absorbers can separate. Check the shock absorbers to ensure that they are positioned correctly, and inspect them for damage and wear. If one or more of the shock absorbers are broken or worn out, we recommend replacing all of the shock absorbers as a preventative measure.
Suspension Rod – One or more of the suspension springs might be broken. The suspension springs help to absorb the movement of the washer tub. If a suspension spring breaks, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during operation. Inspect the suspension springs to determine if any of the springs are broken. If a suspension spring is broken, replace it.
Suspension Spring – One or more of the suspension springs might be broken. The suspension springs help to absorb the movement of the washer tub. If a suspension spring breaks, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during operation. Inspect the suspension springs to determine if any of the springs are broken. If a suspension spring is broken, replace it.
Counter Balance Spring – One or more of the counterbalance springs might be broken. The counterbalance springs help to absorb the movement of the washer tub. If a spring breaks, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during operation. Inspect the counterbalance springs to determine if any of the springs are broken. If a counterbalance spring is broken, replace it. Additionally, check the frame where the counterbalance springs are attached. If the frame is rusted, replace it.
Snubber Ring –The snubber ring dampens the vibration of the washer tub. If the snubber ring is cracked or worn out, the washer will vibrate or shake during operation. Inspect the snubber ring for damage. If the snubber ring is cracked or worn out, replace it.
Snubber Pad – The snubber pad dampens the vibration of the washer tub. If the snubber pad is worn out missing, or coated with a sticky substance (such as detergent, fabric softener, or transmission oil), the washer will vibrate or shake during operation. Inspect the snubber pad. If the snubber pad is worn out or missing, replace it.
Shipping Bolt –All front loading washers are delivered with shipping bolts to stabilize the drum system during transportation. These shipping bolts must be removed when the washer is installed. If the shipping bolts are not removed, the washing machine will shake, bounce, and vibrate significantly during operation. Remove the shipping bolts and save them in case you need to move your washer to a new location.
Shipping Bolt Kit – Washer vibration can occur if the shipping bolts have not been removed. All front loading washers are delivered with shipping bolts to stabilize the drum system during transportation. The bolts are located at the back of the washer and they must be removed before use otherwise the machine will shake and bounce around significantly.
Balance Ring – The balance ring may have lost its fluid. The balance ring sits on top of the outer tub and helps to counter the force of the spin cycle. The balance ring is filled with fluid. This fluid helps to dampen the vibration of the washer. If this fluid leaks out of the balance ring, the washer tub will vibrate and shake during operation. Check the balance to determine if is still filled with fluid. If the balance ring is emptied of fluid, replace it.
Shock Dampening Device – The shock dampening device helps to absorb the movement of the washer tub as it spins. If the shock dampening device is broken, the tub might become unbalanced, causing it to shake and vibrate during the spin cycle. Inspect the shock dampening device to determine if is broken. If the shock dampening device is broken, replace it.
Tub Wear Pad – The tub wear pad dampens the vibration of the washer tub. If the tub wear pad is worn out or missing, the washer will vibrate or shake during operation. Inspect the tub wear pad. If the tub wear pad is worn out or missing, replace it.
Rear Drum With Bearing – The rear drum has a bearing or bearings in it to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing system is defective the washer can develop a bad vibration. On some machines bearings are sold separately from the rear drum, however we recommend replacing both the outer drum and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together because removing and pressing in the new bearing can be exceptionally difficult. Be aware that replacing the outer tub and bearing is also not easy and can be very costly.
Leveling Legs – Sometimes simply check to see if the washer is level, and adjust the leveling legs if necessary. Always lock the legs in place after adjustment to keep them from getting loose.
Water Inlet Valve – The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the wash may fill slowly or not fill at all. The water inlet valve requires sufficient water pressure to function properly. First, check the water pressure to determine that it is adequate. If the water pressure is adequate, try cleaning the screens inside the water inlet valve hose connection ports. If the washer still fills slowly, replace the water inlet valve.
Low Water Pressure From House Supply – The home water pressure might be too low. The water inlet valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Check the water pressure to the valve to determine if it is sufficient.
Drain Pump – The drain pump pumps water out the drain hose. If the drain pump is cracked or damaged, or if the bearings are worn out, the drain pump may leak water. The drain pump is not repairable—if the pump is leaking water, replace it.
Tub Seal & Bearing Kit – The tub seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the tub seal is leaking water, water may leak through the tub seal and into the tub bearings. This can cause the bearings to fail. For this reason, if the tub seal is leaking water, replace both the tub seal and the tub bearings. Be aware that this is a complicated repair and will require disassembling most of the washer.
Tub Seal – The tub seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the tub seal is leaking water, water may leak through the tub seal and into the tub bearings. This can cause the bearings to fail. For this reason, if the tub seal is leaking water, replace both the tub seal and the tub bearings. Be aware that this is a complicated repair and will require disassembling most of the washer.
Door Boot Seal – The door boot seal might be torn, causing water to leak from the seal. If the boot seal is torn, replace it.
Tub-to-Pump Hose – The tub-to-pump-hose might be split or torn. If the tub-to-pump-hose is damaged, replace it. Do not attempt to cut off the damaged piece of hose and stretch the hose to fit the pump. Stretching the hose will put strain on the remainder of the hose and may cause the hose to suddenly rupture.
Drain Hose – The drain hose may be leaking. The drain hose most commonly leaks from the connection between the pump and the back of the washer. If the washer is pushed too far against the wall, the hose can rub against the wall and form a leak. Inspect the drain hose for leaks. If the drain hose is leaking, replace it.
User Control & Display Board – To determine if the user control and display board is defective, try pressing the buttons on the control panel. If some of the buttons work, but others do not work, the control and display board might need to be replaced. Additionally, if the display is not working, check the power to the user control and display board. If the user control and display board has power, but it isn’t working, replace it.
Timer – The timer is frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the timer, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. To determine if the timer is defective, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multi-meter to test the timer for continuity.
Line Fuse – The line fuse blows if the washer circuits are overloaded. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the line fuse is at fault, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. Check for shorted out components such as the wires, motor, or drain pump. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.
Thermal Fuse – If the washer overheats, the thermal fuse will blow. If the line fuse blows, the washer won’t start. To determine if the thermal fuse is at fault, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the fuse does not have continuity, replace it. In addition, you should investigate and resolve the problem that caused the fuse to blow. If you don’t resolve the underlying issue, the new fuse will blow too.
Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.
Incoming Power Problem – The electrical outlet may not be getting power. To determine if the outlet is getting power, try plugging something else into the outlet. If the outlet is not getting power, check the home circuit breakers or fuses.
Power Cord – First ensure that power is getting to the electrical outlet. If the electrical outlet is receiving power, but the washer won’t start, the power cord might be defective. However, this is very rare. To determine if the power cord is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for the cord for power. If the power cord is not getting power, replace it.
Door Lock – The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multi-meter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity.
Motor Coupling – The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. If the washer is overloaded, the motor coupling will fail in order to protect both the motor and transmission. The motor coupling can also fail due to normal wear. Inspect the motor coupling to determine if it is broken. If the motor coupling is broken, replace it.
Drive Belt – Inspect the drive belt to determine if it is broken or if it is loose on the pulleys. If the drive belt is broken or loose, replace it.
Lid Switch Assembly – The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multi-meter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Drive Motor – The drive motor might be defective. However, the drive motor is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the drive motor, first check all of the more commonly defective washer components. If none of those components are defective, consider replacing the drive motor. To determine if the drive motor is defective, first ensure that the motor is getting power. If the drive motor hums but doesn’t run, is noisy, or does not turn freely, replace it.
Stator Assembly – The stator interacts with the rotor to create a strong electromagnetic field which rotates the tub in either direction. If the windings on the stator are damaged, the washer will not spin or agitate. Check the stator for damaged windings or other defects.
Rotor Assembly – The rotor interacts with the stator to create a strong electromagnetic field, which rotates the tub in either direction. If the magnets on the rotor are damaged, or any part of the rotor is defective, the washer may not spin or agitate. To determine if the rotor is defective, inspect the rotor for damage. If the rotor is damaged, replace it.
Door Latch – The door latch secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the door latch is defective, the washer will not spin or start. The door latch can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door latch for damage. If the door latch is damaged, or does not close properly, replace it. To determine if the door latch has failed electrically, use a multi-meter to test any switches on the door latch for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity when activated, replace the switch.
Door Lock Motor & Switch Assembly – The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer door will not latch properly. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, use a multi-meter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.
Motor Control Board – The motor control board provides power to the motor. If the motor control board is defective, the washer may not function properly or may not work at all. First, check the control board for burned out components. To determine if the motor control board is defective, ensure that the control board is providing power to the motor. If the control board has power, but is not providing power to the motor, replace it.
Transmission – The washer transmission might be worn out or defective. Transmissions have gears in them that can fail causing the washer to not spin or agitate. However, this is almost never the case. Before replacing the transmission, first check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide. If the motor is turning the transmission, but the washer won’t spin or agitate, consider replacing the transmission.
Water Inlet Valve – Try shutting off power to the washer while the machine is filling with water. If the washer continues to fill with water even when it is not getting power, this indicates that the water inlet valve is defective. If the water inlet valve is defective, replace it.
Pressure Switch – The pressure switch shuts off power to the water inlet valve when the proper water level is reached. If the pressure switch fails, the water inlet valve will continue to fill the washer tub with water, causing the washer to overflow. Before replacing the pressure switch, check the air tube to the pressure switch to ensure that it is clear of debris and is not leaking.
Low Water Pressure From House Supply – The water pressure to the water inlet valve might be too low. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water inlet valve does not get enough pressure, the valve may not close fully after the power is shut off. As a result, water can leak into the washer and cause it to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is sufficient.
Door Lock Motor & Switch Assembly – The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer door will not latch properly. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, use a multi-meter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.
Door Lock – The door lock assembly might be defective. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged, replace it.
Door Latch – The door latch assembly might be defective. Inspect the door latch for damage. If the door latch is damaged, replace it.
Door Strike –Inspect the door strike assembly for damage. If the door strike is broken, replace it. The door strike is not repairable—if it is broken, you must replace it.
Main Control – The main control board may be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the components of the lock mechanism. If none of these parts are defective, consider replacing the main control board.
Lid Switch Assembly – The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer may stop mid-cycle. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multi-meter to test each of the lid switches for continuity. If a lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.
Door Lock Motor & Switch Assembly – The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch prevents the washer from operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer may stop mid cycle. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s diagram and use a multi-meter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.
Water Inlet Valve –During the rinse cycle, the water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the wash tub. If the water inlet valve fails, the washer will continue waiting for the water to enter the washer, causing it to stop mid-cycle. To determine if the water inlet valve is defective, use a multi-meter to test it for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.
Main Control Board – The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.
Timer – The timer might be defective. The timer is frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the timer, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. To determine if the timer is defective, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multi-meter to test the timer for continuity.
